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Excerpt from What, No Meat? |
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Copyright © 2008 by Roberta Roberti All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or reprinted
in any form or medium without express written permission from the author. ISBN 978-1-60145-384-6 Preface (Prefazione) Food is an integral part of Italian life. It is used
to celebrate, mourn, comfort, and to enjoy just for its own sake. For me, holidays were always about a crowded dining room
table overflowing with food, voices, and the sound of utensils clanking against dishes. I was the baby of my family and didn’t
have much to say during those countless feasts. So as I sat at the table, I just ate and listened and observed, as something quietly formed in my
head. Those holiday dinners became the seedlings from which this book would spring. Our holiday meals were usually hosted
by my mother, Rosa, and my Aunt Maria (it didn’t matter whose house it was in, they always hosted together), and food
was abundant. When my brother, Fabio, a vegetarian since 1986, declined the main entrée (always meat), someone
would invariably say, “What, no meat?” Year after year, the question was put to him. It became almost amusing.
It also showed how unaccustomed old world Europeans were to the concept of vegetarianism. The odd thing is that Italians are
not the big meat eaters that people think they are. While the idea of excluding meat from their diets may seem strange to
Italians—frightening, even—the truth is they wouldn’t miss it that much, for many traditional Italian dishes
are vegetarian. When I first told my parents that I’d become a vegetarian—seven years after my brother
had—they said, “What does this mean, you won’t eat meat?” I wanted to say something sarcastic, but
it would have been lost in the translation. So I just let them continue. “So what will you eat? Chicken? Fish?” All I could do was roll my eyes. Since I was the second veggie child in the family, I was prepared for the broken record that would
undoubtedly play every time that meat platter came around the table. Maybe because of my brother, my family caught on more
quickly with me. When I said, “No, thanks,” they left it at that. But it took them a long time to understand that
meatless meals can still be complete. I have to admit that it took some learning on my part, too. When I first gave up meat, I discovered that I did not know how to prepare vegetarian meals. It
was not just a matter of eliminating the meat and eating what was left. I had to learn how to build fulfilling, nutritious
meals. It became necessary to learn how to make a variety of dishes so that I would not drown in pasta with marinara sauce;
as much as I love that, one can eat only so much of it. So I began buying cookbooks to learn the process of cooking all over
again. There were plenty of vegetarian cookbooks on the market, but they did not reflect the tastes and techniques I’d
grown up with. I enjoy all types of food, but Italian is my go-to cuisine, my comfort food. Italian cookbooks, on the other
hand, posed a different problem: I used only a fraction of the recipes, since so many contained meat. What a waste. My goal was to cook authentic meals that would rival my mother’s. I wanted to lay out a feast
like she did, and fill my guests’ bellies without having them miss the meat. Then it occurred to me that rather than
learn from total strangers who were fortunate enough to get a book published, I would learn from those around me, the people
who influenced my daily life—my mother, my aunt, my friends...and me. The recipes in this book are a combination of
these sources. Many are my mother’s recipes, those I remember from childhood. The others come from family and friends
and my own creative juices. There are many things that we, as human beings, take for granted: our ability to walk, speak, think,
breathe. The rising of the sun and moon. The existence of cats and dogs. And food. The fact that food exists, that we can
purchase it or grow it, prepare it and eat it. Too many people don’t realize that food was not always “just there.”
It is accurate to say that foods were waiting for us to discover them, but knowledge about their properties and uses came
to us a little at a time. Other species eat the same foods all their lives, and are happy to so do. But because humans are
such curious, adventurous, and easily bored creatures, we discovered what was okay for us to eat and what wasn’t. Through
trial and error, we now have an immense array of foods to choose from. Since I was learning a new way of cooking and eating, I began to examine the individual components
of the meals I was preparing. How did people know that tomatoes would make a great sauce? How come the word pepper applies
to two completely different things? Where do spices come from? For thousands of years, people used foods for many purposes.
Why should we just assume that a particular item was always eaten or that it was always used just for sustenance? It was necessary
for me to understand the role of food in our lives, physically and spiritually. Within these pages, you will find much of
what I discovered. None of this is to say that the only purpose of this book is to discuss the history of food or vegetarianism.
Ultimately, it is a cookbook and the most important thing is the food itself. Eating is one of the joys in life that, done
in a healthy manner, you can indulge in guilt-free. Mark Twain, writer and vegetarian, said, “He who does not mind his
belly, will hardly mind anything else.” In other words, if you don’t take care of yourself properly, you won’t
take care of anything else properly. If you take the time to eat right, you will do other things right as well. Just remember
that eating properly is an important part of a long, healthy life. Even my family members, who were so accustomed to eating
huge meals loaded with fat, turned over new leaves. They all eat healthier now, at first because they had to, but now because
it’s their way of life. Don’t misunderstand; this book is not intended to be used as a nutritional guide for diets
or health issues, just for fun and enlightenment. As you go along, I hope that both my recipes and the fascinating—sometimes
bizarre—facts and legends about food please you. After all, the need for food is the one thing all living creatures
have in common. My family is from the Most of the recipes in this book are easy and can be made in a short amount of time, an important
factor these days. There are some recipes that require a little time and patience, both of which are precious commodities
in our hectic, nano-second world. However, as my family—and probably yours—can tell you, some of the best things
in life are worth waiting for. Or, as Julia Child put it, “Non-cooks think it’s silly to invest two hours’
work in two minutes’ enjoyment; but if cooking is evanescent, well, so is the ballet.” So pour a glass of wine (or tea, as the case may be) and take your senses on a journey of classic
and ancient culinary delights. I share with you the precious offerings of my family and our culture. I sincerely hope you
enjoy them all. Buon appetito! Table of Contents Antipasto Antipasto—Recipes Cheese Pasta Pasta—Recipes Tomatoes Soups and Stews Soups and Stews—Recipes Herbs and Spices Vegetarian Entrées and Side Dishes Vegetarian Entrées and Side Dishes—Recipes Beans Rice, Risotto, and Potatoes Rice, Risotto, and Potatoes—Recipes Pizza Pizza—Recipes The Almighty Olive Oil Bread Bread—Recipes Desserts Desserts—Recipes Glossary Suggested Menus Recipe Index Pink Bean and Potato Salad with Dill (Insalata
di Fagiolini Rosa e Patate con Aneto) 2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 2 cups cooked pink beans or 1 (15-ounce) can, rinsed and drained 2 cups cooked cannellini beans or 1 (15-ounce can), rinsed and drained 2 medium tomatoes, diced 1 small yellow bell pepper, diced 1 large carrot, shredded 1 small red onion, finely chopped 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1 tablespoon dried dillweed 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste Extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar Place the potatoes in a small pot of water and bring it to a boil. Cook until they are tender
when pierced with a fork, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well and place them in a large bowl. (Do not use an aluminum bowl;
this will cause a reaction with the vinegar.) Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Chill the salad in the refrigerator for at least
2 hours. Bring it back to room temperature and give it a toss before serving. Keep leftovers tightly wrapped in the refrigerator up to 3 or 4 days. Makes 10 to 12 servings. Comment: This recipe reminds me of how connected In the late 1700s, dill seeds were given to American
children to keep them awake in church, thus getting the name “meetin’ seeds”; today, dill is used in aromatherapy
to sharpen the conscious mind. The ancient Romans wove wreaths of dill (then called aneth) to wear at feasts. They mixed aneth
oil in gladiators’ food, or gave them aneth tea, believing it to be a tonic and stimulant. Dill promotes appetite, helps
milk production in nursing mothers, and chewing dill seeds is an old-time cure for bad breath and hiccups. A cousin of fennel, dill was plentiful throughout history,
exemplified by a story which says that in ancient Italian Vegetable Dip (Bagna Cauda) 2 cups (1 pint) heavy cream 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons finely minced garlic 1 vegetable bouillon cube 1 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon white pepper 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons Vegetables and bread of your choice for dipping In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil over medium heat. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute. When the
cream comes to a boil, gradually add it to the butter and garlic and slowly whisk it in. Add the remaining ingredients and
blend well. Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture has thickened, about 10 to 15 minutes. Keep the bagna cauda warm by serving it in a dip warmer, fondue pot, or chafing dish. Cut up an
assortment of vegetables of your choice and rip up bite-size pieces of savory bread, such as pumpernickel or sourdough, and
arrange them on a platter to serve with the dip. Refrigerate leftovers. Tightly sealed, it will keep 2 to 4 days. Makes about 1½ cups. TIP: For an extra-thick dip, let it sit overnight in the refrigerator after you’ve cooked
it. Heat it gently on the stovetop and transfer it. Comment: The expression bagna cauda comes from the words bagno caldo, meaning
“hot bath.” Unlike most dips, this vegetable dip is not chilled but kept heated, creating a warm “bath”
for your crudités. In Cheesy Vegetable Soup (Minestra di
Verdura e Formaggio) 3 large potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-size chunks 5 garlic cloves 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 small onion, sliced 1 tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch 1 cup cauliflower florets 1 cup sliced carrots 1 large zucchini, sliced 1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced 1 cup very small pasta (such as stellini or acini di pepe) Freshly ground black pepper to taste ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) 1 cup shredded provolone 1 cup shredded parmigiano 3 cups croutons (optional) Bring a medium pot of water to a boil; add the potatoes and cook until tender when pierced with a fork, about
10 to 15 minutes. Drain well and place them in a blender or food processor, along with 2 whole garlic cloves, and blend until
the mixture is smooth. Mince the remaining 3 garlic cloves. Heat the oil and butter together in a large pot. Add the onions and minced garlic and sauté until the onions
are translucent, about 5 minutes. Dissolve the arrowroot or cornstarch in 8 cups water and add it to the pot. Bring it to a boil. Add the cauliflower,
carrots, zucchini, and tomatoes and cook until all the vegetables are tender, about 10 to 13 minutes. Pour in the potato mixture
and mix well. Add the pasta, stir, and cook until the pasta is tender, about 10 to 12 minutes. Season the soup with pepper
and red pepper flakes. Simmer over medium heat. When it comes to a boil, add the cheeses and continue to simmer until the cheeses are
melted, about 5 minutes. Ladle the soup into individual serving bowls, sprinkle a few croutons on top, and serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Comment: The main focus in this soup is not the pasta but the vegetables and cheese.
The pasta is added just for that extra texture but you can eliminate it altogether for a totally vegetable-cheese experience.
I enjoy the flavor of provolone but you can substitute other cheeses, if you like. Good ones to use are fontina, Sautéed Asparagus with Parmigiano Reggiano (Asparagi con
Parmigiano Reggiano) 1 pound asparagus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ cup grated parmigiano Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) Bring an inch of water to a boil in the bottom of a steamer (or a pot, if you’re using a steamer rack).
Meanwhile, trim the asparagus by snapping off the bottoms and trimming off rough or discolored parts. When the
water comes to a boil, add the asparagus in the top part of the steamer and cover. Cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender,
about 6 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the stalks. Remove from the heat and let any water that has built up
on the asparagus drip off. Melt the butter in a large pan and swish it around to coat the bottom. Add the cooked asparagus and toss to blend. Cover the pan and cook over medium heat until the asparagus has softened a little more, about 3 to 5 minutes.
Add the salt, parmigiano, pepper, and red pepper. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus begins to brown
slightly, about another 2 or 3 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to a serving platter and serve hot. Keep leftovers tightly sealed in the refrigerator 2 or 3 days. Makes 4 servings. Comment: The word asparagus is said to come from the word aspharagos, a Greek work meaning
“as long as one’s throat.” The Greeks ate wild asparagus while the Romans cultivated it. In fact, Romans
had special troops just to harvest asparagus, and they even took some into the Over the years, asparagus has been considered an aphrodisiac
and the Chinese believe that the roots of asparagus plants increase feelings of compassion and love. Because of its shape
(particularly white asparagus), an Elizabethan writer was compelled to write that asparagus “manifestly provoketh Venus,”
the goddess of love. In One story goes that a 17th-century mathematician named Bernard
de Fontenelle was having his favorite asparagus dish for supper. Unexpectedly the Abbé Terrasson dropped in and asked if he
could stay for dinner. An annoyed de Fontenelle ordered his cook to dress half of the asparagus with his favorite oil dressing
and the other half with a white sauce for his guest. Fontenelle must have quietly cursed the Abbé for taking half his asparagus
because just before dinner, the Abbé fell to the floor with apoplexy (an old-fashioned word for stroke). Seeing his opportunity,
Fontenelle ran to the kitchen and shouted, “All the asparagus with oil!” Julius Caesar, on the other hand, liked
his asparagus with melted butter. Many Italians to follow would keep asparagus close to their hearts and constant in their
stomachs. Tidbit In the Zucchini Frittata (Frittata di
Zucchine) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/3 cup finely chopped onion 2 large garlic cloves, minced 1 plum tomato, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley 3 large fresh basil leaves, minced 1 large zucchini, cut into 1/8 -inch-thick slices 4 eggs 2 teaspoons grated parmigiano ½ teaspoon salt In a 10-inch nonstick pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until the onions
are translucent and the garlic is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato, parsley, and basil. Stir and cook for
2 minutes. Add the zucchini, cover the pan, and cook until they are tender, about 5 to 8 minutes. In a large bowl, beat the eggs well. Add the zucchini mixture from the pan, along with the remaining ingredients;
mix well. Pour the mixture back into the same pan, cover the pan, and cook over medium heat until the eggs are firm and the
underside is well browned, about 10 to 13 minutes. Slide the frittata onto a plate; invert it onto another plate and slide
it back into the pan. Continue cooking until the underside is well browned, about another 5 minutes. Slide the frittata onto a serving plate. Cut it into wedges and serve it hot or at room temperature. Keep leftovers tightly wrapped in the refrigerator 2 to 4 days. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Comment: All around the world, people eat eggs of all shapes, sizes, and species.
High in protein, all essential vitamins (except C), and most essential minerals, eggs have been eaten both as a daily form
of sustenance and as an occasional delicacy, depending on the region and type of egg in question. Most of the ancient cultures
ate eggs of one type or another and numerous cultural and cult ceremonies were, and still are, centered around eggs. The Pheonicians
believed that an egg represented Earth (the yolk) surrounded by Heaven (the white), while the Egyptians believed that the
yolk represented the sun and the white represented the moon. Native Americans believed that the Great Spirit came from a golden
egg before creating the earth (which really puts a new spin on the “which-came-first” debate). During the Renaissance,
eggs were the chief source of food next to meat. Benedetto Varchi, a 16th-century historian, wrote a treatise on boiled eggs.
Pierre Francois de la Varenne, a 17th-century chef, wrote a cookbook featuring 60 different egg recipes. The most important egg in the world (in terms of feeding
masses of people) is the hen’s egg. The New World was introduced to hens’ eggs in 1493, when Christopher Columbus
brought chickens to the Tidbit In the year 1000 A.D., explorer Tidbit In the year 1000 A.D., explorer Lief Ericsson
wrote that he had encountered a land where “there were so many birds that it was scarcely possible to step between their
eggs.”Lief Ericsson wrote that he had encountered a land where “there were so many birds that it was scarcely
possible to step between their eggs.” Espresso Granita (Granita di Caffè) 2 cups hot, fresh, strong espresso or regular coffee ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar Powdered espresso for garnish (optional) Pour the hot coffee into a large bowl, add the sugar and stir it until dissolved. Add 2 cups cold water and stir
to blend. Pour the mixture into a large, shallow glass casserole or metal cake pan. Place it in the freezer until ice begins
to form (this could take up to 5 hours). Scrape and mash the ice with a fork, but not so much that it liquefies. Place the pan back in the freezer and
freeze for another 20 minutes. Mash it with a fork again. Repeat this process every 15 minutes, up to 2 hours. The granita
should look like loose ice crystals. If it has not reached that point, continue the freezing and mashing process until it
does reach that stage. To serve it, scrape the granita with an ice cream scoop or a spoon and place it in dessert dishes. Sprinkle a
little espresso powder on top and serve immediately. If you are not going to serve the granita immediately, cover it and keep it in the freezer. If it is a solid
block again by the time you are ready to serve it, loosen it by pulsing it briefly in a blender—but make sure not to
liquefy it. Keep frozen up to 2 weeks. Variation: For fruit
granitas, liquefy the fruit of your choice in a blender and strain it. Measure out 2 cups and stir it into 2 cups cold water.
Begin adding sugar, a tablespoon at a time, until it is to your liking. Blend well and follow the directions above. Comment: Granita is the classic Italian ice dessert. Granita means “grainy”
in Italian and it differs from sorbetto (sorbet) in that it has a grainier texture. It is important to keep track of the freezing
time accurately. Granita needs to be mixed and mashed often and on time while it is freezing because otherwise the water content
rises to the surface and freezes there, while all other particles sink to the bottom, resulting in a sludgy consistency. This
is particularly true if you are using fruit juices for the flavoring. Coffee flavor is the darling of granitas (Italians and
their coffee, you know!) but fruit-flavored granitas are not only widely enjoyed but have grown so much in popularity that
the choices of fruits have expanded along with demand. Some “new” fruits, such as pomegranates and guavas, are
being used with gusto. Granita should be served immediately but if you want to
make it in advance, pulse it briefly in a food processor or blender just before serving to loosen it. This book will be available from Mindancer Press in November 2009. |
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